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How to Choose a Card Counting Course

Six questions to ask any card counting course before paying for it — about its math, its chart, what it gives away, and what happens if you want your money back.

Choosing a card counting course comes down to six checkable questions: does it publish its numbers with the uncertainty attached, is its strategy chart verified rather than copied, what can you use before paying, what are its refund terms, will it sell you the course on credit, and is there a public record you can check.

Six questions, and why these six

Almost everything sold in this subject makes the same promises, so the promises cannot separate anything. What can separate them is whether a course will show you its working when you ask. The six questions below are the ones with checkable answers — you can apply each of them to any course in a few minutes, including this one, and get a result that does not depend on anyone's marketing.

We answer each for ourselves underneath, with a link to the evidence rather than a claim about it. Where our answer is unimpressive we say so.

1. Does it publish its numbers with the uncertainty attached?

A house edge quoted as a single figure with no interval, no rule set and no source is telling you less than it appears to. The same game with a different soft-seventeen rule gives a materially different answer, so a bare number is not wrong so much as unusable.

Ours are measured and published with their intervals and the exact game they were measured on, and the page showing them explains why the interval is not a hedge. If a course cannot tell you where its numbers came from, that is the answer to this question.

2. Is the strategy chart verified, or copied?

Most published charts are copies of copies and nobody can tell you where the original came from. That is usually harmless and occasionally not: an error in a copied chart propagates silently, because the next copyist has no way to notice.

Ours was computed twice by methods that share no table — once as the tables the trainers grade against, and once from first principles — and the two agreed on every cell compared. The comparison re-runs on every build, so it cannot quietly stop being true.

3. What can you actually use before paying?

Free samples in this category are often a chapter of a book and a video. The useful test is whether the free part is a tool you would still use after buying, or an advertisement shaped like one.

Everything we build to train the skill is free and needs no account: the chart, the countdown drill, four trainers, a bankroll calculator, and a timed test. The paid product is the course that teaches the whole system, and the tools do not degrade if you never buy it.

4. What are the refund terms, stated plainly?

Refund policy is the cheapest honesty signal available, because it costs the seller something. Look for a number of days and a plain sentence rather than a paragraph of conditions.

Ours is stated on the refund page and honoured the same way it is written.

5. Will it sell you the course on credit?

This one is rarely asked and it is the most revealing of the six. A course that teaches bankroll discipline while offering to split its own price into instalments is contradicting its own lesson at the moment of purchase.

We removed instalment payment from our checkout deliberately, and the removal is pinned in code with a test that fails the build if anyone re-enables it. The reasoning is the founder's and it is short: if you cannot afford it, you should not buy it.

6. Is there a public record you can check?

Anyone can describe a playing history. Far fewer can point at something dated and unedited that was published before it was convenient.

Ours is a nine-year archive of hands posted publicly and never edited, retitled or taken down — including the ones that argue against us. It is not flattering, which is rather the point.

⛔ And here is the honest part: this is the one answer on this page we are asking you to take on trust. Every other criterion above links to something you can open and check right now. This one does not, because the archive is tied up in a legal matter and we are not linking it until that is cleared. A page about verification does not get to quietly skip the item it cannot verify, so we are naming it instead: apply this question to us again later, and hold us to it.

What this page is not

It is not a ranking, and it names nobody. We have no way to audit anyone else's material and no interest in characterising it, so the honest thing is to give you the questions and answer them for our own, which is the only one we are in a position to check.

If another course answers these six better, the framework has done its job.

Questions

What is the best way to learn card counting online?
Learn basic strategy until it is automatic, then a counting system, then the conversion, then bet sizing — in that order, drilling each until it stops costing attention. The order matters more than the source: counting layered on shaky basic strategy adds a small edge to a larger leak. Free tools are enough for the drilling; a course is for the parts that need explaining.
Is there a free card counting course?
There is a great deal of free material, including ours: the chart, the drills, the trainers, a bankroll calculator and a timed test, all without an account. Whether you need a paid course depends on whether you want the reasoning behind the drills explained, which is what a course is actually for.
How much does a card counting course cost?
They vary widely, and price is a poor signal in either direction. The useful questions are the six on this page — what the course will show you, what it gives away, and what happens if you want your money back.

Reading isn't counting. The drill is free.

Run the countdown drill →

The full system — the eight modules, the book, the forum, the Gauntlet — is one purchase at $297, lifetime access. The drill costs nothing either way.